Briar T-Shirt and Kelly Skirt!

Now I made my Kelly Skirt AAAGGGEESS ago but I hadn't posted about it so I thought I'd kill two birds with one stone and post an entire handmade outfit (with muchos lovos to Megan Nielsen who made the two patterns I made!).

So here are the front and back views. I made the Briar top in the short cropped version purely because I only bought 70cm worth of wide jersey (I went fabric shopping with my Mum and fell in love with the colour but not the price!). The original pattern has a deeper arch at the front but I shallowed it a little as I cut it out as I didn't want to bare too much midriff as unlike the Man Repeller I feel I ought to avoid the Resort-full-on-belly-reveal trend! The sewing on the Briar top is far from perfect, but for my first time sewing with jersey I am rather pleased.

The Kelly Skirt is another fantastic pattern! Please excuse the creases and runkled-upness of the skirt - I'd already worn it the day prior to taking these photos and, well, I really hate ironing. I do really love the fabric I made it out of but next time I think a cotton twill or any fabric with a nicer drape would be better as it does rather stick out a bit. I'd also make a smaller waist band because, although you can't tell from the photos, it is tooo big for me! I can tuck a t-shirt, jumper and more into that thing (which to be fair has led to some interesting outifts!). 

Here's a closer look at both of them, and the horrendous creases in my skirt.

Completed Thurlows! (and Exams)

So my latest project has been the Thurlow Shorts from the awesome Sewaholic . And I'm so pleased with them. I'm a major pear shape so finding shorts on the high street that fit my hips while not being stupidly huge on the waist or vice versa is a bit of an issue - luckily Sewaholic patterns are designed for pear-shaped women so getting them to fit was actually pretty easy. I made a muslin (ALWAYS MAKE A MUSLIN) in a size 0 as the finished measurement on the waist matched my own. The fit around the waist ended up being perfect and then I just used the Colletterie's Pants Fitting Cheat Sheet and this chart of common trouser alterations to change my paper pattern, whip up a new muslin just to check and voila! I was ready to go! Turns out all I needed to do was add a touch more room to the inseams near the crotch and at the side seams so I literally only graded those sections out towards a size 4 and back again.

Sadly for a beginner, Sewaholic pattern instructions are a bit sparse in some places so I'd urge everyone making them who's a bit unsure about certain tricky sections (the double welt pockets for example) to read Lladybird's Thurlow Sewalong. The only thing she wasn't that useful with was the cuffs at the end - turns out I don't know how to make a cuff! However after a little bit of Googling I found this tutorial which helped me out.

 

I went for some swish navy blue gabardine because I wanted some nice smart shorts that I could wear with tights in winter too, but they'd work just as well in a lighter cotton for summer!

My lining was pretty standard navy too but I really fancy making a pair in perhaps a beige cotton with a really crazy lining like this:

Como Bright cotton lawn by Alexander Henry

                     

My next project is going to be Sewaholic's Cambie Dress with the full skirt. I have always wanted to have a dress like that so I can't wait to get started!! I was inspired by this fabric which I saw in John Lewis

Charleston Farmhouse Bloomsbury Parchment by Felicity Miller

But I'll have to see if it's still available :( It's just perfect for the shape with it's fifties vibe and really reminded me of Angie Lewin's art (one of my favourite printmakers).

                                 

Thurlow Shorts

Now, I'm very excited (and a little apprehensive) to start my new project - these lovely Thurlow shorts from Sewaholic!! There's a lot of pattern pieces (always something a little scary about patterns with more than, say, 5 pieces xD) and includes making pocket welts AND attaching a fly zipper - something that the Great British Sewing Bee has taught us is a rather hard thing to do. So it'll be a learning curve but with the help of Lladybird's Thurlow sew-a-long, hopefully they'll turn out well!!

I've also recently made the gorgeous Kelly Skirt from Megan Nielsen. The whole internet seemed to be going crazy over this pattern and for a totally legitamite reason - it's amazing! Pictures shall come later :D

Now, I'm off to make a toile D:

A Grasp of the Fundamentals: Final Outcome

So here is my the final Fundamentals dress which came to Tuscany with me. As you can see I made a lace up back (incorrectly as it was a last minute decision and purely involved some buttonholes and grosgrain ribbon!) and in order to make the panels stand out I made some stencils out of freezer paper (so easy!) and printed on a design. It was a lot simpler in aesthetic (and in aesthetic only!) than the other costumes on the trip but I think that it reflects my personal style well and gave me the opportunity to really play around with fabric :D I learnt a lot doing it and I can recommend having a go to anyone!!

A Grasp of the Fundamentals: Part 2

So last post we made the toile and cut it in to what will become the final dress and this week it's time to shape it up xD

I think it's a really good idea to practise with your toile fabric before cutting out your actual fabric and going for it - purely because it is quite tricky and technical. The basic idea is to cut slits into each piece to make it lie flat. I spent a lot of time worrying about where and how many slits to make but I don't think it really matters, as all you're trying to do is to create a bigger piece to ease in and therefore create a bit of shape - just as you would a sleeve.

Can you see how the top piece of fabric has slits in it so the shape created by the darts are lost? And IMPORTANTLY, how I've transferred alignment markings (that are also on the dress!) to my new, larger pattern piece? I've added seam allowance too of course.

Here's toile mark 2 (also awfully awfully sewn together) but it gives a basic idea of what my dress will look like. I've added flares which Nakamichi does give basic instructions on how to do - essentially making slits in your fabric and opening them out so when you cut out your new fabric an extra triangle is almost inserted - as if it's a section of a circle skirt.

Now you're ready!! Ready for the final article :O so unpick your toile, cut out the pieces in your new fabric and go for it! But slowly...

When you insert your design panels into the main dress you have to ease them in, just as you would a sleeve. This I found really hard, especially with the extraordinarily tight corners that you have to sew round but, with a lot of care and fearless use of the seam un-picker I got there in the end!

My (slightly dodgy) easing!