A Grasp of the Fundamentals: Part 2

So last post we made the toile and cut it in to what will become the final dress and this week it's time to shape it up xD

I think it's a really good idea to practise with your toile fabric before cutting out your actual fabric and going for it - purely because it is quite tricky and technical. The basic idea is to cut slits into each piece to make it lie flat. I spent a lot of time worrying about where and how many slits to make but I don't think it really matters, as all you're trying to do is to create a bigger piece to ease in and therefore create a bit of shape - just as you would a sleeve.

Can you see how the top piece of fabric has slits in it so the shape created by the darts are lost? And IMPORTANTLY, how I've transferred alignment markings (that are also on the dress!) to my new, larger pattern piece? I've added seam allowance too of course.

Here's toile mark 2 (also awfully awfully sewn together) but it gives a basic idea of what my dress will look like. I've added flares which Nakamichi does give basic instructions on how to do - essentially making slits in your fabric and opening them out so when you cut out your new fabric an extra triangle is almost inserted - as if it's a section of a circle skirt.

Now you're ready!! Ready for the final article :O so unpick your toile, cut out the pieces in your new fabric and go for it! But slowly...

When you insert your design panels into the main dress you have to ease them in, just as you would a sleeve. This I found really hard, especially with the extraordinarily tight corners that you have to sew round but, with a lot of care and fearless use of the seam un-picker I got there in the end!

My (slightly dodgy) easing!